The art of Surfing starts with the surfer watching a wave that he or she can ride on the horizon, estimating its speed and getting on that roller and then doing some surfing moves. Many beginners are unable to catch a wave to begin with in the first place and need to know the fundamental differences between an accomplished surfer and a ‘kook’ or newbie. These are friendly terms BTY. When the wave begins to push the surfer forwards you need to jump to your feet in what surfers call the pop-up.
Once upright you then start to ride down the face of the wave trying to be ahead of the ‘white water’ or breaking part of the wave. Lots of surfers call this the Çurl or the ‘Pocket’. Naturally learning this process takes time which is why you’ll need to spend some time in the swell yourself perfecting these techniques or start with a surfing lesson to get you going.
Frankly if you’re a beginner a surfing lesson will speed up your time to standing on a wave considerably. This is a fact unless you’re an absolute natural As a surfer your skills will involve being able to face challenging weather conditions and then to catch and successfully surf bigger and bigger waves and to also perform different technical surfing maneuvers like carving, cutbacks, airs, floating, turning and ‘the dragon’s breath’.
LINK TO NEW PAGE HERE SHOWING VIDS, POSTERS ETC SHOWING GREAT DB dragon’s breath’ SHOTS)
There are several terms used to describe when you are actually inside a curling wave including: “Riding the Green Cathedral”, “Tubing” and many more. This is when you are in a spot where the wave is actually curling over your head and creating a barrel type formation.
If you don’t know what your doing you are FUBAR….your in a tight spot, your f&^%^%ed, your gunna go down and possibly be held under by the following sets. This may require you to hold your breath for up to 2 minutes if it’s a reasonably big break. Serious ass air time.
I won my high school underwater race in 1987 where I swam 75 metres underwater over 2 minutes but that was 87. In fact that was last century! The message is if your gunna surf something big be prepared.
Riding the Green Cathedral i.e. the cylindrical part of the wave is the hardest and most dangerous piece of surfing. It is also one of the peak experiences you will find in life…………..aside from skydiving but I’ll get around to that in another part of this site. LINK TO MY NEW SKYDIVING SITE CALLED ‘SURVIVING A SKYDIVING DEATH CRASH’
As Confucius says: "Wherever you go, go with all your heart."
There are other terms in surfing called ‘hanging Ten’ and ‘Hanging Five’ which are surfing moves only carried out on a long board. Hanging 10 is when you have both your feet on the absolute front end of the long board with all your toes pointing off the edge of the stick and hanging 5 is when you have 1 foot and five toes hanging off the front of the board.
Either way this feels like you are floating in front of the wave. It’s an unreal experience. Spatial man.
Some Surfing Lingo:
• Stalling
Slowing your speed by changing the weight on the tail of your board
• Floater
Peaking out by riding up on the top of your wave
• Hang-5 & Hanging-10
Putting 1 or 2 feet respectively over the end of your longboard
• Re-Entry
Dropping onto the wave lip vertically and re-entering the wave after leaving it.
• Regular Surfer
Putting your right foot on the back of your board
• Goofy
Putting your left foot on the back of your board
• Take Off
The beginning of your ride
• Drop-In
Dropping into some others bros wave = not cool. Click here to see what Dropping In is so you will NOT commit this crime.
• Chili Cheese Dog
From Costa Rica which means wiping off the face of the wave in a big way
• Bottom turn
This is the 1st turn at the bottom of the wave you are riding
• Shoulder
This is the part of the wave which has not yet broken
• Cutback
This involves cutting back toward the overhead breaking part of your wave
• Tube Riding
Riding the ‘Green Cathederal’, dialled in, slotted deep inside the 'Green Room' ….inside the tube braham.
• Carving
Literally making radical turns on your wave – up/down/sideways…whatever
• Over the Falls
Equals bad news. It’s when you and your board, assuming you don't make the drop or stuff up, get caught up in the lip of the pitching wave then drilled
• Tha Snap
This is a quick, fast, sharp turn performed on top of your ride
• Aerial
Doesn’t really need any explanation but its getting air off the top of your wave